In March 2018, Virgil Abloh was appointed as the new artistic director of men’s wear at Louis Vuitton, one of the most powerful and prestigious French luxury fashion houses. This groundbreaking appointment made Abloh the first African-American to lead a major brand under the LVMH luxury group umbrella.
Abloh’s rise signified the increasing crossover between streetwear and high fashion. His appointment appealed to younger generations while honoring Vuitton’s history as an innovator serving new wealthy classes rather than old French aristocrats.
The then 37-year-old Ghanaian-American, who studied architecture and founded the hugely popular streetwear brand Off-White in 2013, did not train formally in fashion design. However, Abloh’s savvy understanding of what contemporary culture wanted from luxury proved pivotal in LVMH’s choice.
Bridging High Fashion and Streetwear
Dubbed a “master of irony and reference” by the New York Times, Virgil Abloh excelled at recontextualizing familiar symbols and codes through streetwear’s casual irony. His trademark style often featured quotation marks around fashion terms printed on clothing.
Abloh aimed to build on his predecessor Kim Jones’ foundation in urbanizing Louis Vuitton’s aesthetic. However, he also focused on redefining luxury codes and changing how the label communicates with consumers globally.
His appointment provoked excitement but also high expectations. Some critics argued that Abloh’s real genius lay more in repurposing others’ work rather than designing original silhouettes. Nonetheless, his high-profile collaborations with brands from Ikea to Nike showcased formidable creative vision.
Early Life and Creative Partnerships
Born to Ghanaian immigrant parents near Chicago, Virgil Abloh studied architecture and civil engineering. He first met Kanye West in the early 2000s, eventually becoming his creative partner in Donda, West’s creative agency.
Abloh and West soon caught the fashion world’s attention with an internship at Fendi. Although lacking formal fashion training, Abloh learned about design from his mother, a skilled seamstress.
After founding Off-White, his 2013 collaboration with Nike helped rocket Abloh to design stardom. Further high-profile partnerships followed, cementing his reputation for bridging streetwear with high fashion.
Conclusion: Abloh Was Poised to Redefine Luxury
With leather goods sales booming, Louis Vuitton hoped Virgil Abloh’s aura of cool would attract younger shoppers. Abloh aimed to expand access and visibility for diverse creatives in an industry not always known for openness.
He unfortunately passed on, but Abloh looked set to redefine luxury for new generations. His role at Louis Vuitton provided an unprecedented platform for his trademark style, mixing old-school luxury with modern irony.